Overview
Suzhou covers an area of 8,488 square meters and consists of six
county-level towns with a population of over 6 million. With a history of more
than 2,500 years, the ancient city, boasting splendid scenery, rich cultural
heritage and abundant agricultural products, it is situated in the Lower Yangtze
basin by the side of lake Taihu. Suzhou is surrounded by more than 20 lakes.
Narrow waterways thread between white-walled houses to link up with the Grand
Canal, making the city the Venice of China.
Climatically, Suzhou has distinct seasons, with a yearly temperature
averaging 15.7 degrees Centigrade and precipitation 1,250 mm. The city tree is
the camphor, the flower osmanthus.
Ever since the founding of Suzhou as the capital of the Wu Kingdom in 514
B.C., it has been the political, economic and cultural center of the region. As
a place famed for its well-known scholars, successful merchants, great
architects and distinguished artists, Suzhou provides favorable conditions for
the creation and development of classical gardens, among which the Humble
Administrators Garden, the Lingering Garden, the Lion Cave Grove and the Master
of nets Garden are the most famous and the masterpieces of the Suzhou Gardening
Art.
Attractions
The Humble Administrators Garden
Located at 178 Dongbei Street of Suzhou, the Humble Administrators Garden
is the largest garden in the city, and it is also regarded as the 4 most famous
gardens in China, together with the Summer Palace of Beijing, the Mountain
Summer Resort of Chengde, and the Lingering Garden of Suzhou.
The gardens site used to be a scholar garden during the Tang Dynasty, and
later became a monastery garden for the Dahong Temple during the Yuan Dynasty.
In 1513, during the Ming Dynasty reign of Emperor Zhengde, an administrator
named Wang Xianchen appropriated the temple and converted it into a private
villa with gardens, which were constructed by digging lakes and piling the
resultant earth into artificial islands. Since 1949, the garden has been
undergone several renovations, and opened to the public in 1954. The present
garden covers an area of 1.867 hectares (4.67 acres), and three-fifth of the
garden is taken up by water.
Todays garden is only very loosely related to its earliest version, but
closely resembles its late Qing appearance, with numerous pavilions and bridges
set among a maze of connected pools and islands. It consists of three major
parts set about a large lake: the central part (Zhuozheng Yuan), the eastern
part (once called Guitianyuanju, Dwelling Upon Return to the Countryside), and a
western part (the Supplementary Garden). The house lies in the south of the
garden.
In total, the garden contains 48 different buildings with 101 tablets, 40
stelae, 21 precious old trees, and over 700 Suzhou-style bonsai.
Garden of Net Master (Wangshiyuan)
Garden of Net Master is the smallest among the four most famous classic
gardens in Suzhou, yet it is the most impressive, thanks to the architect who
used its limited space smartly to create the illusion of a much larger area.
Even more than the architectural achievement is the sense of tranquility and
harmony that this humble garden embodies.
This exquisite garden was first built during the Song Dynasty (960 - 1279)
as part of a residence, which was in use until the Taiping Rebellion took place
in the 1860s. It later became the residence of a government official and was
given its present name. It is said that by giving his garden such a name, he
indicated that he would rather be a fisherman than a bureaucrat.
The garden is divided into three sections: the residential quarters, the
central garden and the inner garden. Surrounding the big pond in the main
garden, there are structures such as the Ribbon Washing Pavilion and the
Pavilion of Moon and Wind Advent. As is commonly seen in Suzhou gardens, there
is a small pavilion standing in the center of the pond, a bridge of less than
one-foot wide linking it to the shore.
When you walk in the gardens corridors, through the windows, you often
catch views of beautiful flowers or plants in distance. As a private mansion,
the garden is obviously designed for the convenience of the family members and
their guests. From any of its buildings, you can always find easy access to the
main garden. The rooms, furnished in the Song-dynasty style, are quite
impressive too.
The exquisite inner garden, recognized as the best preserved garden in
Suzhou, has been copied as the Ming Hall Garden of the Metropolitan Museum of
Art in New York and miniaturized for an exhibit in the Pompidou Center in Paris
in 1982.
Lingering Garden or Garden for Lingering in (Liuyuan)
Covering an area of 2.3 hectares, the Lingering Garden is the best
preserved among all the Suzhou gardens. It is also one of the four most famous
gardens in China, (the other three being the Summer Palace in Beijing, the
Mountain Summer Resort in Chengde, and the Humble Administrators Garden in
Suzhou).
Situated outside the Cang Gate of Suzhou city, the garden was built in 1583
of by Xu Taishi, a bureaucrat of the Ming court, as his private residence. Named
East Garden, it is recorded to have magnificent multi-storey houses in the
front and halls in the rear, and a range of awe-inspiring stone mountains built
by the well-known master Zhou Bingzhong, resembling a long scroll of landscape
painting.
Later, in 1794, the garden became a property of the Liu family. After being
expanded and renovated, it was renamed Hanbi Villa, which was popularly known
as Liu Garden. In 1873, it was purchased by the Shengs, and again renamed as
Lingering Garden, since lingering in Chinese sounds the same as Liu, the
surname of the former owner.
Today the garden is separated into the eastern, central, northern and
western parts. The central part features a man-made mountain and lakeside
scenes, resembling a long scroll of traditional Chinese painting. The eastern
part is noted for its joyous groupings of gardens and elegant buildings; the
western part is for the enchantment of woody hills; and the northern part,
cottages with bamboo fences and idyllic scenes.
An artificial hill made of rocks from Taihu lake is always a major
component of Suzhou gardens. The 6.5-meter-high Cloud-Capped Peak in this
garden, which is the highest of its kind found in Suzhous classic gardens, is
believed to have been a collection from Northern Song Dynasty. Weighing about
five tons, the limestone is supposed to have been carried here from the Taihu
Lake, 40 km away.
The number of steles in the Lingering Garden has never been surpassed by
any other garden in Suzhou. Masterfully inscribed with the works of over 100
calligraphers in the Jin, Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, they
illustrate the evolution of Chinese calligraphy during the past 1,000 years.
In 1961, the garden was listed as a key national cultural relic under state
protection.
Pavilion of the Surging Waves (Canglang Pavilion)
Encompassing 1.07 hectares (2.7 acres) Pavilion of the Surging Waves, one
of the oldest existing gardens, is well known for its peaceful scenery and
simple architecture. It was built in the period 1041 to 1048 in the Northern
Song Dynasty, more than 900 years ago by the poet Su Shunqin, who had just lost
his official position and decided to buy a small piece of land in Suzhou on
which to build a residence. That part of land in Suzhou, which he chose was know
for its beauty. The garden is a fine example showing how the natural landscape
both inside and outside could be merged.
The garden has altogether 20 different buildings, 22 plate aux and tablets,
23 parallel couplets, 153 steles, 12 ancient trees and many other different
plants.
Canglangting, a square pavilion, stands at the top of a hill. Couplets
carved on its stone pillars read: The refreshing breeze and the bright moon are
priceless; the nearby water and the distant mountains strike a sentimental
note. A corridor built by the canal lies in the north of the garden, linking
the scenes inside the garden with that outside it.
Mingdao (Enlightened Way) Hall, located at the foot of the hills, is the
major building of the garden. It was a hall for lectures during the Ming Dynasty
(1368-1644). Surrounded by verdant trees, it looks significant, though the
structure is of simple architectural style.
In addition to hills and waters, the garden is also famous for buildings
with unique latticed windows. With different impressive designs, these windows
have extremely high artistic value.
Lion Grove (Shizilin)
Lion Grove Garden (Shizilin) is located at 23 Yuanlin Road, in the
northeast of Suzhou. It is one of the four most famous and representative
classic gardens in Suzhou (the other three being the Surging Wave Pavilion,
Lingering Garden and Humble Administrators Garden).
Built in 1342 during the Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368) by Monk Tianru and a
group of Buddhists of the Zen Sect, in the memory of High Monk Zhongfeng, Lion
Grove Garden has been changed hands and renamed several times. It was first
given the name of Lion Grove, as the grotesque rocks of its man-made hill
resembled lions. Later, in 1342, its name was changed to Puti Temple. Lion Grove
Garden was a popular center for Buddhist, as well as literary activities. Many
scholars created their paintings or lines after being inspired by the
garden.
After Monk Tianrus death, his disciples were dismissed. Lion Grove Garden
was abandoned and became dilapidated. In 1589 of the Ming Dynasty, Monk Mingxing
rebuilt the garden and temple with donations he had collected. During the reign
of Emperor Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the two parts were separated.
Huang Xingzu, the governor of Hengzhou, bought the garden and renamed it She
Garden. His son, Huang Xi gave it a new name -- Five-Pine Garden in 1771, after
a major renovation was carried out. The garden was again left in ruins due to
the Huang familys bankruptcy, until it was purchased by the Bei family in 1917.
After the founding of the Peoples Republic, the garden was donated to the
government. From then on, it has been under good protection.
Covering an area of about 1.1 hectares, Lion Grove Garden is an ideal site
for sightseeing as it has richly ornamental pavilions and towers in different
styles, each having its own history and story. Zhenquting (True Delight
Pavilion) is the most magnificent in Lion Grove Garden. Built in royal
architectural style, it has a horizontal board inscribed by Emperor Qianlong of
the Qing Dynasty, who visited the gardens six times. Lixuetang (Standing-in-Snow
Hall) was named according to a Buddhist story which tells how a devoted Zen
adherent stood in snow for a whole night to worship his master monk. Wenmeige
(Pavilion for Greeting the Plum Blossoms) was a place where painters and poets
gathered. In addition to the plum trees around the pavilion, all the furniture
and utensils inside are all decorated or carved with designs of beautiful plum
blossoms. Furthermore, many rare tablets and steles, paintings and calligraphy
works are kept in Lion Grove Garden. Among them are precious Ming-dynasty
artworks such as Panoramic View by Ni Yunlin and the Twelve Scenic Spots in
Lion Grove Garden by Xu Ben.
A representative garden of the Yuan Dynasty, the most noted attraction of
the Lion Grove Garden is the labyrinthine rockery made of limestone from the
Taihu Lake. Rocks in this Kingdom of Rockery are piled up skillfully and
ingeniously, and most of them look like lions in different postures and verves:
playing, roaring, fighting, sleeping, or even dancing. It is said that in the
past, looking north from Xiaofangting (Small Square Hall), one could see nine
stone lions standing in a row and that is the Nine-Lion Peak. Due to the changes
and ravages of the time and the erosion of elements, the peak now only bears
little resemblance to lions.
Tiger Hill (Huqiu)
Outside Suzhou at Tiger Hill, the ruler of State Wu named Helu in the late
Spring and Autumn Period (770-476 BC) is said to have been buried some 2500
years ago with his treasures such as three thousands swords, stores of gold and
jade. One hundred thousand civilians were involved in the construction of the
tomb. Elephants were used for transporting stones and soil. It took three years
to complete mausoleum. The entrance of the tomb is still undiscovered. Legend
relates that Emperor Qinshihuang and Sun Quan of Eastern Wu dispatch personnel
to the Tiger Hill and chiseled to search for the tomb and its buried treasures
but nothing was found. Later the place for chiseling became a deep pool, hence
the name of Sword Pool.
The most famous scenic spot is Huqiu Pagoda, which was built on the top of
the Tiger Hill over a thousand years ago. Construction of the pagoda began in
959 and completed in 961. From the Southern Song Dynasty to 1860 the pagoda
caught fire on seven occasions. The top of the pagoda and eaves of the pagodas
each story were destroyed, only the brick structure remains. The 47-meter-high
pagoda is tilting now at an angle of 2.48 degrees. It has become a kind of
trademark of Suzhou. People can find its image on food package, tickets and on
local T-shirts.
Pan Gate (Panmen)
With a history of 2,500 years, Pan Gate stands at the southwestern corner
of the ancient city of Suzhou. Walking onto the top of the gate, you can see the
Wu Gate Bridge and the Auspicious Light Pagoda. Together, they are popularly
known as the Three Scenes at Pan Gate.
Construction of Pan Gate began in the first year of the reign of He Lu,
King of Wu during the Spring and Autumn Period (770-476 BC). Although it has
been renovated and rebuilt many times through the ages, its location has never
changed an inch.
The present Pan Gate was rebuilt in the 11th year of the reign of Zhizheng
in the end of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) and renovated during the following
Ming and Qing dynasties. With water gates and land gates towering side by side,
Pan Gate looks very imposing. The land gate consists of double gates, one inside
and the other outside, with city walls forming a square terrace of about 20
meters long on each side.
Pan Gate is a fortress suitable for ancient water-towns like Suzhou in the
southern part of China. The two water gates adjoining the land gates are the
only water pass linking the inside and outside of the southwestern corner of the
city. Built with granite, each of them has enough room for two boats passing
side by side. For each gate there is a huge sluice gate to control the water
flow. It is easy to imagine the prosperous sights then that the double water and
land gates of Pan Gate shined on the Grand Canal, when horses and carriages went
through the pass with flags fluttering, and boats paddling through the water
gates.
Wu Gate Bridge is located on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal beside Pan
Gate. Looking like a rainbow hung in the sky, it is the longest stone one-arched
bridge in Suzhou. Construction of Wu Gate Bridge began in the Northern Song
Dynasty, but the bridge seen today was rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty. As it was
the gateway to the Wu state, the bridge was named Wu Gate Bridge.
A huge stone arched bridge, Wu Gate Bridge is about six meters high and 63
meters long. In each of its south and north ends, there are 48 steps made out of
a whole rectangular slab of five meters long and 0.5 meter wide. The whole Wu
Gate Bridge was built with carefully and precisely sculpted granite from the
Jinshan Hill and the seams were filled with mixture of alum, glutinous rice soup
and lime. That is why the bridge remains as solid as it was newly built, though
hundreds of years have passed. On the bridge, one can have a clear view of the
gate tower of Pan Gate and the Auspicious Light Pagoda.
The Auspicious Light Pagoda was originally an attached building of the
Buddhist Monastery of Universal Relief. It was built by Sun Quan, King of Wu,
during the Three Kingdoms period. The current Auspicious Light Pagoda was from
the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty and its wooden parts went through
several renovations during the Song, Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is the second
oldest structure of its kind in the Suzhou area, next to the Tiger Hill Pagoda
only.
Standing 44.42 meters high, the pagoda is a seven-storey octagon structure.
Its elegant figure is reflected in the Grand Canal. And either in daybreak or
twilights when sunrays shoot on its body cast upon its roof, the pagoda looks
particularly magnificent. If you climb onto the pagoda by following the stairs
and looking into the distance, you will have a panoramic view of the picturesque
water-land in the Yangtze River Delta.
Zhouzhuang an ancient water town
40 km southeast of Suzhou, the town of Zhouzhuang (originally Yaocheng,
Zhenfengli), was first built by the ruler of State Wu in the Spring and Autumn
Period (770-476 BC). In Northern Song Dynasty, Zhou Digonglang settled down
here, and he was a devout believer in Buddhism. Later he and his wife donated
all their properties to Quanfu Temple. Then the local people renamed the town to
Zhouzhuang (Zhou Village) to show the appreciation and respect to this generous
contributor.
Almost every piece of the ancient town is an art work. According to the
Suzhou Tourism Bureau, they have invited all the best archaeologists in China to
manage a deteriorating carved brick gate in Zhouzhuang, but none of them could
handle the job. No living archaeologist has mastered this ancient skill.
The town benefits from the beauty of rivers and lakes. The 14 ancient
bridges on the river were built during the Yuan (1271-1368), Ming (1368-1644)
and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. Double Bridge is one tourist clamor to visit,
where two bridges positioned to form a right angle over the stream. Another
noteworthy bridge is Fuan Bridge, which is the oldest bridge in Zhouzhuang
built in 1355.
Residents of the ancient town built their houses and streets along the
rivers. Over 60% of the towns buildings date back to the early Ming Dynasty.
Two buildings in particular attract lots of tourists: Shen Ting (Hall of Shen)
built in 1742 and Zhang Ting (Hall of Zhang). Tourists can also take a gondola
to experience the small water town.
Tradition and culture
Suzhou is the birthplace of the flourishing Wu Culture which has had
immense influence in the regions embracing Taihu Lake, west of Shanghai,
southeast of Nanjing, northwest of Zhejiang and south of Yangzhou and Huaiyin.
As one vital part of the Chinese traditional civilization, the Wu Culture has a
long history which may be traced back to 10,000 years ago. However, just about
2,000 years ago, this culture had a surge of development. At first, the Wu
Culture mainly adopted the essence of the central Chinese civilization. Until
the middle of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), more and more overseas civilizations
were absorbed by the Wu Culture, and then introduced into central China. Coming
after the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Suzhou City was one of the most prosperous
Chinese cities, both in agricultural production and domestic and foreign trade.
Therefore, it is no wonder that Suzhou is one of the cities where the earliest
bud of capitalism in China appeared.
The historic Wu Culture has left Suzhou City with a series of attractive
heritages, including the classical gardens and water townships, the melodic
rhythm of Kun Opera and Ping Tan (Suzhou ballad), the Wumen Fine Arts School,
the Suzhou handcrafts and the Jiangsu Cuisine. Each of them can reflect the
locals essential character-exquisite, mild and smart.
Kun Opera and Ping Tan
Kun Opera (Kunqu or Kunqiang) is the mother of all Chinese operas, which
has a history of over 600 years. It originated in the Kunshan area of Suzhou
City in the late Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) and developed to be a musical system
in the Ming Dynasty, and came into its golden age in the period of the Emperor
Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty. In 2001, the UNESCO awarded it as the Human
Beings Verbal and Intangible Cultural Heritage Representative Work. Kun Opera
sounds graceful and haunting and is good at controlling the voice and rhythm as
well as every word and sentence. These performance skills are vividly displayed
in the shuimoqiang (floating water mill tune) which embodies the distinctive
character of the Kun Opera. When performed, the opera is accompanied by various
kinds of instruments, such as flute, Sheng, Xiao (pipe), Sanxian (trichord) and
lute. When you are in Suzhou, it will be an interesting experience to enjoy a
noted Kun Opera, for example, the Peony Pavilion, A Story of the Screaming
Phoenix, the Peach Blossom Fan or the Palace of Eternity.
Pintan is an ancient performing art of storytelling and ballad singing in
Suzhou dialect, being the general name for Pinghua and Tanci. Pinghua, also
called Dashu, is performed by a single narrator with a gavel and a fan, relating
a historical romance, court case, martial arts story or heroic epic. The Tanci,
which is also called Xiaoshu, is mainly put on by two people, regarding the
stories of daily life and love. The instruments used include the Sanxian and
lute. This art originally appeared in the Qing Dynasty and was favored by
successive monarchs and locals. Its distinctive performing skill consists of
storytelling, loud laughter, music-playing and singing. The well-known stories
are Love of Weal and Woe, Yang Naiwu and Xiao Baicai, Meng Lijun, Qin
Xiangliang, Wusong and Lin Chong.
Wumen Fine Arts School
The advantageous climate and heavy atmosphere of literature in Suzhou
attracted a great number of literati from the Yuan Dynasty. Among them, there
were many artists who formed the famous Wumen Fine Arts School over time during
the Ming Dynasty. The representative artists include Shen Zhou, Wen Zhengming,
Tang Yan and Qiu Ying. Their great achievement of mountains-and-waters painting
deeply influenced the artists of the late Ming and early Qing dynasties.
Especially after the middle of the Qing Dynasty, Wumen paintings were in vogue
among the upper classes. It is worth mentioning that these Wumen artists also
emphasized the combining of poems, calligraphy and art. This kind of innovative
idea encouraged the literati to perfect their painting style.
Dining
Suzhou cuisine excels in every branch of culinary art - stewing, braising,
quick-frying, stir-frying, steaming, roasting and deep-frying. The dishes tend
to be sweet. The soups are clear, but not thin; the gravy is rich, but not
heavy. Suzhou cooks are especially good at preparing dishes using freshwater
products. Some of the more famous dishes are braised duck in soy sauce and
steamed squirrel mandarin fish.
Suzhou cuisine enjoys a significant position in Chinas culinary culture.
Together with Suzhou silk embroidery, gardens and handicrafts, Suzhou cuisine is
the 4 major cultural heritages. It has a long history, dating back to 5000-6000
years ago. Archaeological finds showed the local people around 4000 BC began to
prepare and eat the cooked food. In Tang Dynasty, the boat dishes became
popular as the rich people liked to hold banquets on boats so as to enjoy the
beautiful scenery and food at the same time. Since the kitchens on board were
small, the food featured delicacy instead of large quantity.
After thousands of years of development, Suzhou cuisine has formed 12
categories, and more than 1200 different dishes, which follows the tradition,
and is sweet, light in taste, uses high-quality ingredients and exquisite
cooking. Its vegetarian and aquatic dishes are especially famous.
The 2 most famous restaurants are Songhelou (Address: 141 Guanqian Street)
and Deyulou (Address: 27 Taijian Lane, Guanqian Street). Other recommended
restaurants are Nankai Restaurant (123 North Dongwu Street), Wangsi Restaurant
(23 Taijian Lane) and Wanjiadenghuo Restaurant (379 Phoenix Street).
Shopping
Handcrafts
Su Embroidery
Su embroidery is one of the four major styles of Chinese Embroidery. Vivid
depictions of animals, people, landscapes and flowers are popular themes of Su
embroidery. Traditional embroidery is blended with fashionable contemporary
elements, yielding a style of embroidery that is appreciated by both Chinese
people and foreigners. You can enjoy more exquisite Suzhou embroidery in the Su
Embroidery Museum, which is at No.262, Jingde Road.
Song Brocade
From ancient times, the silk produced in Suzhou has been considered among
the best in China. As its name implies, Song Brocade, which is woven from the
outstanding silk of Suzhou, is made in the style of the Song Dynasty (960-1279).
Song Brocade, which is made in a variety of styles and serves many functions, is
always elegantly designed and colored. If you want to learn more about the silk
culture of Suzhou and do some shopping, the Suzhou Silk Museum is a must. It is
located at No.2001 Renmin Road and can be reached by buses No.1 and 102 and the
tourist special buses No.1 and 2.
Suzhou Fan
Suzhou fans are another of the fine handcrafts available in Suzhou. The
traditional folding fans can be made of sandalwood or mandarin silk, while the
newer style round fans are made of paper. They make good gifts for yourself or a
friend back home.